Showing posts with label Egypt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Egypt. Show all posts

Saturday, August 24, 2019

Egypt's 'Queens' rule D.C.

                                                                                                                                                                            /Photo by Patricia Leslie
Who doesn't want to go to Egypt?  Land of ancient mysteries, pyramids, the afterlife, kings and queens, the Nile, a rich past.

You don't have to go all the way to Egypt to catch a glimpse of its history and learn about its women rulers who governed the country for hundreds of years. Many of their remnants have come to us in Washington, courtesy of the National Geographic Museum, Egypt, and world-renowned museums which have loaned 300 objects for a stellar presentation, Queens of Egypt.

About 1400 years from the New Kingdom (16th through 11 centuries BC) though the last queen and pharaoh, Cleopatra VII (69-30 BCE) are covered. Sculptures, jewelry, a tomb model, a 3-D theatre, courtroom documents and more tell the stories and unfold the dramas in 12,000 square feet at the National Geographic Museum.

The show has so many compelling pieces it's hard to pick just one as favorite.  Perhaps it's the reality that these women ruled thousands of years ago, and they didn't have to wait for laws and courtroom sagas and currents movements to give them rights and acceptance.  They were way ahead in "the game."

Below are some of the Queens' pieces I found most intriguing and interesting, but there are too many to show here.  Please visit and tell me what you think.
A statue of Idet and Ruiu which is unusual to find two women shown side by side since it's mostly couples sculpted when two figures are made together.The women's relationship is unknown although Idet seems the more important since she's seated on the right and is called the "lady of the house." Limestone, probably from the Theban Necropolis, c. 1480-1390 BC, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie

"Ramses the Great" (Ramses II), the builder of Abu Simbel whom the label calls "perhaps the most famous ruler of ancient Egypt," is seated here between two patron deities of Thebes, the god Amun on the left and the goddess Mut. All the figures (men and women, gods and mortals) are the same size symbolizing their equality. Ramses's stature enabled him to connect the mortals with the gods "preserving cosmic balance." Granite, Temple of Amun, Karnak, c. 1279-1213 BC, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Researchers believe this fragment likely came from one of the standing colossi at Amenhotep III's temple in Thebes where a series of huge statues stood in the court. More large statues were built during Amenhotep III's reign than during any other pharaoh's rule.  Granite, c. 1390-1353 BC, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Mut, whose name means "mother," was revered in Egyptian society, according to the label, because "she was a supportive and dutiful wife, a powerful queen, and an honored goddess," in other words, "a role model."  She and her spouse, the god, Amun-Ra, were king and queen of the gods in the New Kingdom. Limestone,  c. 1292-1250 BC, unknown provenance, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
A youg boy called Amenmes is identified by his lack of clothing and his "traditional side-lock."  His skin is redder than women's because of men's roles outside the home. Unknown provenance, c. 1500-1450 BC/Photo by Patricia Leslie
A rare likeness of Isetnofret, the second Great Royal Wife of Pharaoh Ramses II, who son, Merenptah, became pharaoh. Her name is inscribed on the statue's right shoulder. Two protective cobras adorn her forehead ("a double uraeus."). Sandstone, c. 1279-1213 BC, Royal Museums of Art and History, Brussels/Photo by Patricia Leslie
At the exhibition/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Ernesto Schiaparelli found fragments of Queen Nefertari's sarcophagus in her burial chamber in 1904, but the tomb was empty, stripped by grave robbers.  No Egyptian queen's tomb has ever been found intact/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Model of Nefertari's Tomb. Built shortly after 1904 when Mr. Schiaparelli discovered Nefertari's tomb in Egypt's Valley of the Queens. Drawn on a 1/10 scale, the paintings from her tomb walls were carefully copied and reproduced. Wood, made by Francesco Ballerini, Edoardo Baglione, and Michelangelo Pizzio, early 20th century, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Although Mr. Schiaparelli found Queen Nefertari's tomb empty, he did find fragments of the pink granite stone sarcophagus and her wooden tomb in her burial chamber, all destroyed by grave robbers.  Also, he discovered a box lid (in bottom left corner, above) belonging to the queen which likely housed the shabtis (on the right in the picture.  See more shabtis below.)./Photo by Patricia Leslie
#4 This limestone fragment (called an ostracon) depicts Sethherkhepeshef (with his hands raised in worship), one of Pharaoh Ramses III's sons. The fan in his left hand indicates high status. The sketch may be intended as decoration for his tomb. Limestone and red paint, Valley of the Queens, c. 1186-1155 BC,
Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
A carved relief of Pharaoh Ramses III, the last great pharaoh of the New Kingdom. During his long reign, invaders often attacked Egypt which depleted the treasury, leading to Egypt's gradual decline. The first recorded labor strike occurred in the 29th year of his reign. Here he offers wine to a seated goddess, and his mother, Queen Tiy-Merenese follows him. Although his mother may have lived in the harem at times (little evidence of harem life is found anywhere), she more likely resided in her own palace, according to the label copy. Limestone, c. 1185-1155 BC, Royal Museums of Art and History, Brussels/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Around 1155 BC, Ramses III was murdered by one of his wives, Queen Tiy, working with a gang of 38, but the crime failed to install her desired heir.  A transcript of the court proceedings of the  conspirators' trial is recorded on this papyrus scroll.  They suffered their deed harshly/Photo by Patricia Leslie
This is the goddess Sekhmet with the body of a woman and the head of a lion whose cobra head symbolizes her power.  Her craving for blood and her wish to end mankind drove the gods to trick her into drinking red beer which turned her into a gentle cat goddess, Bastet. (Cats are gentle?) Rituals were held every year to make sure Sekhmet/Bastet remained "gentle."  Granodiorite, c. 1390-1353 BC, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
For formal occasions, hair styles among elite women of the 18th dynasty (1353-1336 BC) often included wearing human hair wigs on shaven heads. The less well-off had to wear itchy "date-palm fiber" wigs. The label notes that wigs changed fashion faster than clothing or jewelry. The limestone female in #1 above wears a Nubian-styled wig and a disc earring. Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie

A bronze hairpin is #2. from c. 1539-1075 BC, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy. A closeup of #3 is below.
Combs were often decorated with animal motifs like this member of the cat family. Wood, c. 1539-1292 BC, Royal Museums of Art and History, Brussels/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Worker shabtis, placed in tombs, were intended to look like the deceased. The shabtis were responsible for manual labor for the dead in afterlife. See Queen Nefertari's shabtis above. Wood or limestone, c. 1292-1075 BC, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
The coffin of Ruru which was later used by a man. Wood and paint from the Valley of the Queens, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
The coffin of Asetemhat is plush with symbols of several gods: Nut, goddess of the sky; Osiris, god of the underworld; and Anubis, god of the dead, who mummifies Asetemhat;  Stuccoed wood and paint from the Valley of the Queens in Thebes, c. 722-525 BC, Museo Egizio, Turin, Italy/Photo by Patricia Leslie
These mummies close the show which has so captivated guests, the Queens' stay has been extended from September 2 to September 15, 2019. After that, Queen Nefertari and her belongings will depart for her next adventure at the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art in Kansas City/Photo by Patricia Leslie
                                                                                                                                                                   /Photo by Patricia Leslie

A free, color booklet of 24 pages is available.

What: Queens of Egypt

When: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. daily through September 15, 2019. The last ticket is sold at 5 p.m.

Where: National Geographic, 1145 17th Street, NW, Washington, D.C. 20036
 

Tickets: Adults: $15; seniors, military, students: $12; children ages 5-12, $10; children under age 5 are admitted free. No charge for contributing members. 

Closest Metro station: Farragut West or Farragut North

For more information: 202-857-7700


patricialesli@gmail.com



Friday, April 21, 2017

Stranded in the Sahara


Ramses II (1279-1213 B.C.) built the Temple of Hathor (above, at Abu Simbel) to honor Nefertari, his first and favorite wife who died relatively young, perhaps in childbirth. With his 200+ wives, Ramses had 96 sons and 60 daughters and outlived most of them. He died at age 96. (Author's note: Wouldn't that make most Egyptians related to Ramses II?)/Photo by Patricia Leslie
 

What is a trip to Egypt without being stranded in the Sahara?
 

An incomplete trip!
 

Attention, General Motors and Ford. You may be interested in the following. There may be a market for your vehicles in the Sahara Desert (?).
 

These are photos of our day and night spent at the incredible Abu Simbel Temple which honors Ramses II and Queen Nefertari.
This is the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, built by Ramses II in the 13th century B.C. in his own honor, but ostensibly to honor the patron deities of Egypt's great cities:  Thebes, Heliopolis, and Memphis with Ramses being one of the colossi.  The facade is 108 feet high, and an earthquake in 27 B.C. caused the second deity (from left) to fall down and break his crown whose pieces and ruins lay upon the ground in the front. Please note the living humans at the bottom of the photograph to get a picture of the sizes of these statues. An Egyptian tourism official told us it is the fault of the French that photos inside the Temple are prohibited because when photos were permitted, the French held up the lines too long taking them.  Thanks, French!/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Look at this!  A sound and light show at the Temple of Hathor.  Super fantastic! Now where else could you see this? Nowhere! Photo by Patricia Leslie
In the sound and light show, Ramses II and friends at Abu Simbel look like beautiful lighted ivory candles or monsters in the sand coming to eat you alive, whichever you prefer, and you may name more possibilities/Photo by Patricia LeslieThe next morning we left Abu Simbel and our lovely surroundings on board the magnificent Prince Abbas which we sailed on Lake Nasser (crocodiles)/Photo by Patricia Leslie

The countryside we passed on our journey to Aswan. How do palm trees grow in the desert? I never found an answer
/Photo by Patricia Leslie

On the way to Aswan
/Photo by Patricia Leslie
I hope Egypt has massive production underway to sell the energy harvested from the Sahara's sun and wind. I would like to buy stock in this investment. (The bus windows are reflected in the top of photo) /by Patricia Leslie

Chug, chug, chugging along in the Sahara. While Gail and, I think it was, Kim, both said later they had omens about a breakdown in the Sahara, I was worried about the driver falling asleep at the wheel, given the monotony of the roadway. Hanging on the front windshield is what someone said was a "good luck" charm which made us laugh later, but Tarek, the tour director, said it really was a "good luck" charm, and you know what? He was right/
/Photo by Patricia Leslie

Soon after the photo above was taken, about an hour outside Aswan, the bus broke down.

The driver struggled to get his charges to a marketplace, and he succeeded.
 

The temperature outside was in the mid-80s, and the bus remained relatively cool inside during the two plus hours that we waited for rescue in the form of another bus or a skillful mechanic who just happened to be wandering on the desolate desert highway.

A breeze flowed from one open bus door to the other (thank goodness for two bus doors!).


We were not uncomfortable. No one panicked. No one screamed: "Are we there yet?"
 
The bus came to a stop, and the driver could not get it started again. In the foreground, a security guard considers the situation and shows his opinion of the chances of re-starting the bus. "Exit" appears on the inside of the bus/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Outdoor explorers leave the confines of the bus and set up a baseball diamond. From left, Patsy, Becky, and Steve. Variation in scenery was limited/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Meanwhile, on the other side of the bus collecting sand (really, Kim did, everywhere; she has a worldwide collection at home) were, from left, Dana, Kim, and James (with ear flaps up)/Photo by Patricia Leslie

In the morning's sun and wind, someone began a census count of the increasing number of mechanics who tried to repair the vehicle. Police members who regularly patrol the highway stopped by, too.

I think everyone had an opinion, including me.
 Nancy, Tarek, and Becky soon join the discussion on the meaning of sand. (Note James's ear flaps are still up.)/Photo by Patricia Leslie

Tarek didn't like it too much when I asked him about the frequency of bus breakdowns: "We use the best possible buses available! We use Mercedes!" he squawked. The plate on the big bus bore out his testimony.

Problem solved.

He said breakdowns occur with regularity on his tours, usually once or twice a year. He seemed to take my question personally.

"But," I said, "have you ever considered a GM or a Ford?" Oh my gosh, there they were: spoken words of heresy in the desert.

He guffawed at my boldness, said "Ha!" and threw up a high five. What a ridiculous idea! What do Americans possibly know about driving in the Sahara? Especially, an American...woman?

Tarek, in the U.S., Mercedes are considered a pile of junk. They are always in the shop for repair. No one, Tarek, drives a Mercedes in the U.S. unless the owner pays a retainer fee to the dealer for constant care!

(I apologize, Germans, for opining about your cars, but I don't much like your $8 stale veggie sandwiches at your Frankfurt airport either. Check out my review at TripAdvisor.)

The breakdown added something to our trip, a special "flavor," as it were, "something to talk about," especially considering none of us suffered any ill effects, and, per usual, Tarek had planned far ahead, allowing us plenty of time to reach our next destination, lunch in Aswan!

(That the breakdown was possibly planned has occurred to me more than once.)

Meanwhile, on the back of the bus where some of us took up permanent residency during the life of the tour (more room; less bothersome to the others with our chit-chat), James left us to join the outsiders for discussion.

His partner, Margaret, was soon fuming in her bus seat: "Would you look at him?" she said to no one in particular as she glanced out the window and studied the gathering crowd.

James is quite fair-skinned and needs sun protection.

"He doesn't even have his ear flaps down!" (On his hat). Margaret soon left the bus to go reprimand James, but not before she passed around his secret, emergency supply of Pringles he carries with him on their worldwide trips, "just in case."

This was a "just in case" moment. Although we had ample snacks and water onboard (thanks, Tarek!), Pringles were better, and James didn't seem to mind, once he found out his stash had been raided.

After all, Pringles are worldwide now, and can even be found in the Sahara Desert. Fresh! Not stale!

On left, Tarek explains to Nancy:  "Look!  I didn't plan this!" Please note the arrival of Margaret, on right, who tells James: " Your ears are going to burn up in this sun!" and James's ear flaps flop down/Photo by Patricia Leslie
"Mechanics" (aka highway troopers) at work in the Sahara/Photo by Patricia Leslie

Does anyone here play bridge? Dominoes? Go fish? (No reply)
/Photo by Patricia Leslie

How many policemen does it take to fix an engine in the desert? More than what's here! (Dear Security Patrol: Thank you for trying!)
/Photo by Patricia Leslie

Talk about tombs for the pharaohs: "Thar must be gold inside this bus tomb!" (Attention, Readers: This is how we talk in Tennessee.) I think that's Voltaire in the khaki pants on the left.  Voltaire made an enduring comment during the trip which became widely quoted:  "It must be a woman driver!" (Private joke.  You had to be there.  See what you missed by not traveling with us in Egypt!)
/Photo by Patricia Leslie

Meanwhile, back on board, Nancy listened to Bill, the distinguished Dartmouth music history professor, hum a few bars of "100 bottles of beer in the sand, 100 bottles of beer, take one out and what'd'ya got?" Sand!

Nancy, one of three Texans on the trip, slung it out in her native drawl: "This would never happen in Texas!"
/Photo by Patricia Leslie

Kim closed the curtains, Nancy and Bill sang, and Steve looked for an escape hatch
/Photo by Patricia Leslie
Nope, this fan belt won't work. (Is this a fan belt he's carrying?)/Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Tarek rushed to buy emergency food for his brood/Photo by Patricia Leslie

Ahoy, matey! Is that an apparition of a rescue ship on the horizon? I say it's not, by golly! (This is how we speak in Tennessee when we're pretending to be British.)
/Photo by Patricia Leslie
It is! It is!  A rescue ship had landed! Celebrating from the immediate left are Bev with Dennis and Dana, and, in the distance are Claire and Kim who jaunt off to welcome the lifesavers/Photo by Patricia Leslie

It didn't take long for desert explorers to hop on the new bus and finish the journey

/Photo by Patricia Leslie

This is more like it! An afternoon cruise on the Nile. Thank you to all rescuers, Tarek, and all the fellows who helped make it another exciting day in Egypt

/Photo by Patricia Leslie
On the Nile in Aswan/Photo by Patricia Leslie



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Saturday, April 15, 2017

Luxor, Egypt: A hot air balloon ride

 Photo by Patricia Leslie 
What a grand way to celebrate a birthday, in a hot air balloon over Luxor with about a thousand others! (Not really; it just seemed that way.) 

No need to worry about falling over in the basket since we were about as crushed as Metro riders at rush hour. (When commuters used to ride Metro.  Auuuggghh! (Private DC joke.))


No fatalities, ever!  Said Tarek, the tour guide.  The name of the balloon "pilot in command" on the certificate says "AMR," and he was expert at guiding and driving the balloon, ascending and descending.
  
(Dear Reader, I hope you are not going to skip a trip to Egypt because you are afraid. (Two husbands on our Odysseys tour stayed home because they were afraid. Their wives came without'em. Well, actually one husband stayed home to job hunt which, I suppose, qualifies for an excuse to skip Egypt, but his wife said he was afraid, too.)

Anyway, Egypt is a bargain, folks, with all the sights you've learned about since childhood. You would not believe how far a dollar stretches, l
ike for parchment bookmarks! (10 for one dollar. People I don't even know are asking me for bookmarks.)  


The Egyptians are so welcoming! It's nice to visit a country where Americans are liked and wanted and the subject of street greetings:  "Hallo!  Hallo!" shout the children in their British accents on their way to school. Dear Reader, if you are scared by terrorists, the terrorists win. Besides, you could die at home, in your kitchen or bathroom. Better to be in Egypt, having a good time and doing what you have dreamed about before you go kerplunk. Write and I'll tell you more.)
 The beginning of the balloon ride looks like the end. (Please see last photo.)Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie 
To reach the balloon liftoff, we were up well before dawn to catch the sunrise (and the balloon). This is one of those "have to do" things before you die.
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Right underneath those flames, it's a mite warm.  The workers covered the tops of their heads with their hands. Hmmm....
 /Photo by Patricia Leslie  Adios and farewell to everybody on the ground.
Photo by Patricia Leslie 
These fellows worked with the truck driver on our liftoff.  I think the balloon was attached by ropes to the truck which backed up and pulled on the attachments as we took off, but I really don't know what I am talking about, just observing.  The crew required for ballooning is huge! We always felt safe.
Photo by Patricia Leslie 
The fellow on the right steered this ship in the air, our captain of the sky. Well qualified and confident. More than once he said his balloon gave us a better, longer ride than the competitors in the sky (about six or seven other balloons). He did skim the tree tops and descend and escalate more than the others, I observed, because he must have known it was my birthday, and we were on the best ship in the sky. (Hod - Hod Soliman on Television Street in Luxor.)
Photo by Patricia LeslieSome of the competitors.

 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia LeslieCompetitors, below. We beat them to the sky.
Photo by Patricia Leslie  Up and up and away we go. This may be looking towards the Valley of the Kings (in the distance) where 63 tombs of the pharaohs have been discovered and where no photographs are permitted. 

King Tut's is one tomb open at this time.  When you descend into the tomb, you can see his mummy under a white covering, lying inside heavy duty plastic or a glass case with his head and feet exposed.  He was only 18 when he died and assumed the throne when he was nine or ten. He was the son of a brother and a sister, and King Tut married his half sister, a practice not unusual then but inbreeding led to early deaths.

Dear King Tut, I think you win the prize for Most Accomplishments in a Lifetime.  I am reading The Murder of Tutankhamen: A True Story by Bob Brier (although I understand most scholars now believe Tut died naturally) and my boss lady loaned me Howard Carter's Tomb of Tutankhamen which is hard to put down.
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie  A firing of the jets to boost our elevation.

 Photo by Patricia Leslie That's the edge of the basket in the bottom of the photo.  If you think the basket holds a handful of people, multiple that by ten or more.
Photo by Patricia Leslie The fields are green, thanks to the vital Nile.
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie  Many buildings in Egypt lack roofs which has something to do with tax savings. If the buildings are unfinished (and reserved for future generations), the taxes are lower (I think).
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie 
     Here comes the sun! here comes the sun 
     And I say it's all right
Little darling, it's been a long cold lonely winter
Little darling, it feels like years since it's been here

Here comes the sun, here comes the sun
And I say it's all right

Little darling, the smiles returning to the faces
Little darling, it seems like years since it's been here

Here comes the sun, here comes the sun
And I say it's all right

(Thank you, Beatles)

 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie Sun, ahoy, yonder, coming to the Nile.

 Photo by Patricia Leslie  I think our ship, the Royal Lily, is in the middle of the three ships in the foreground.
  Photo by Patricia Leslie  Luxor from the air.
 Photo by Patricia LeslieCan you see Luxor Temple below (right center)?

 Photo by Patricia Leslie  Luxor Temple from the air.
 Photo by Patricia Leslie Competitors in the air. You can never escape competitors, even up high.

 Photo by Patricia Leslie Egyptians burn their sugarcane fields after harvest.
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie Roofless buildings

 Photo by Patricia Leslie Coming down

 Photo by Patricia Leslie  An invasion of privacy

 Photo by Patricia Leslie We beat competitors to the ground.  We had the best balloon and pilot.
Photo by Patricia Leslie I thought I was flying high in Napa Valley or in southern France.  I had wine on the brain.

Photo by Patricia Leslie  Where birds fly

Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie
 Photo by Patricia Leslie The end, and the hardest part: getting out of the basket.
 Photo by Patricia Leslie  I'm glad I don't have to fold this big piece of laundry. About ten men were present to help us unload and lead us to the shuttle.
 Photo by Patricia Leslie  A'marching we shall go, through the sugarcane fields to the shuttle (and breakfast!  Yay!) I think the white truck on the right is to carry the deflated balloon back to the starting point.  This reminds me of billboards in the U.S. (?) where land owners receive rental payment. I hope these sugarcane owners receive payment from the balloon companies who land in their fields.
Photo by Patricia Leslie Poof!  And the balloon deflates!  Thank you, Claire, for an unforgettable birthday present!


patricialesli@gmail.com